I watched Step Into Liquid on Universal HD a couple of weeks ago and I was inspired by one of the stories. It wasn’t about any famous surfer or new and upcoming prodigy. It was about a school janitor named Dale Webster. Why did a school janitor make it on a surfing movie? Because Dale (leading up to 2004) has surfed every single day for the last 25 years. Yes, every single day of the year, holiday’s, sick, raining, whatever he surfed.
Dale has been through 32 surfboards, 25 pounds of wax and over 400 wetsuits in the last 25 years. He surf’s looking back at the wave, which is a Hawaiian tradition. His daughter mentioned that she thinks Dale will surf everyday until he hits the 30 year mark. He’s not famous. He’s not rich. He’s not good looking. He’s just a man with a goal and a mission. Here’s the best line from Dale:
“For the last 25 years I’ve been surfing against myself…not anyone else.”
Are you “surfing” against yourself or for someone else?
Chris,
I like this. I think it’s a singular individual who can motivate him/herself in this manner.
I’ve been thinking lately about how it’s too easy to take on something for the wrong reason: show someone up, be unabashedly competitive, prove yourself to others, etc…
But really, doing something because it’s just you versus that accomplishment, with nothing else in mind– that is very powerful.
Left by Carolynn on 10/01/2007hi chris
Left by daily wavester on 10/17/2007in case you were wondering today was-
11,745 days 32 years
the wax ball now weighs 48 lbs
and my daughter missed a day of school last year K through15 = 16.5 years
“daily wavester”
Thanks for the update and the inspiration! Keep the dream going!
Left by Chris Knudsen on 10/17/2007